Wednesday, November 27, 2013

Final Day -- Old and New

How lucky is this: Sunday morning, I have the opportunity to rise early and collect a trained archaeologist to guide Matt and me over a couple of No Trespassing signs to an unexplored “pre-contact” settlement area in the Oahu wilds.

In a moment I'm going to show you pictures of a fish bone a long-dead Hawaiian native modified to scrape meat from animals he or she had killed to avoid, well, starving to death. To provide perspective and a measure of the distance from these ancestors, here’s the view from the 29th floor of the Sheraton – an unimaginable altitude for the fish-bone-scraper users. Unseen but also relevant is the dinner buffet twenty-nine floors below where I captured this photo, where all eating tools are supplied (including specialized forks), and where more food than our ancestors likely ever saw at one moment is presented alongside what would be to them other mysteries like blue cloth and ice.

Where I was living:

Where they lived, but are gone now:

What is mostly a long sad story for Hawaii and its inhabitants is due to this geological accident:  The Hawaiian islands are the largest islands for thousands of miles.  Those miles that amount to months on a creaking ship where you can see nothing but water.  Hawaii is larger than the Marquesas, Tahiti, and the many other Pacific Ocean volcano burps that resulted in mostly dry land.  Hawaii is large enough to grow serious crops, develop animal husbandry, and hone related skills like language, agriculture, tool technology and what might be called other vices.  This means that everyone on a ship around 1500 AD wants to visit Hawaii.  Since they carry and share their germs, the moment they land, 9 of every 10 Hawaiians were doomed, since they had no immunity to the diseases carried by their visitors. 

The site we explored was most likely a “Pre contact” site, meaning it was inhabited before contact with (mainly) western civilization.  Captain Cook came here (and was killed here), but so did many others, among them Vancouver, many others, and now the three of us, who we can safely say followed the people who put up the No Trespassing signs.  

Right after those signs, there's a steep hill that leads to an overhang, which is where you and I would want to live five hundred years ago.  



At first this place looks unremarkable, but our guide points out things that I had missed.  Overhanging rock for shelter, a large flat stone for grinding poi, places that would be good for sleeping.  And this all seems circumstantial, something that's open for interpretation, like seeing faces in the clouds, until he kneels to dig a bit beneath a rock outcropping, and he plucks these things from the dirt:  




 

These are fish bone tools.  The last one, single bone in hand, has been modified, broken and sculpted, to facilitate scraping meet from a fish.  An ancient fork.  We are about a mile from the ocean, and the inescapable fact is that the parts of fish we're finding here were brought here by someone long ago, someone who was hungry.  It's likely been hundreds of years since this particular fish was eaten, but this morning it seems like we just missed them by a few minutes.  Had I not stopped for coffee, we'd be having sushi with these folks.  

There's other evidence too. Here's a flat stone bearing the marks (beneath moss) were poi was ground:

Perhaps this is a tool they used?  This is coral, and we're not near the ocean.



And here, what appears to be the remnants of a stone wall:

We begin to appreciate that this place is very old, with the silent signs of people who arranged stones, prepared food they hunted or plucked from plants that are likely descendants of the ones we're walking around this morning.

The site has a spot that affords a great view of the ocean to the north, and pools where they raised shrimp, like we do now.  The only thing that would have been missing is the road. 
 







Sunday, November 17, 2013

Final Leg of the Journey

You can assume I made it safely from Manila to Tokyo, and from Tokyo to Honolulu, where I met Matt at his house on the North Shore.  Before recounting the details of that final leg of the trip, enjoy these pictures of Matt playing with his dog, Ace.  No animals were harmed in this sequence of photos.

Ace slips by.














Wednesday, November 13, 2013

Sunday, November 11 -- Day Trip to Taal Volcano

Several of our Manila colleagues were very gracious and took Eric, Mike, and myself on a day trip to Taal Volcano, a "lake in a crater in a lake in a crater".  By the end of the day we would have travelled by car, boat, and horse to the Taal crater.  Taal is pronounced "Tah-ahl"

Here's our route.  It's about 30 miles south of metro Manila. Nine of us in a van we eventually leave the city and pickup some of our coworkers along the way -- at a Starbucks and a Jollibee (the Phil's version of McDonald's, but just to be safe they have the American version of McDonald's too).

Taal is still considered an active volcano.  Now and again over the past 500 years Taal erupts.  In 1991 or so it erased from the planet seven districts that had been large enough to hold elections for local government.  So around Taal the figurative scientific ear is pressed to the hillside listening for rumblings and escaping gas.  So far so good.

In case you forgot your Philippine Star.







On the way:  "Sharing the road" in the Philippines means sharing it with people you could talk to after rolling down your window.  You're not with "other drivers", you're with your Filipino neighbors.  You can meet folks and share family snapshots while you all move 40 kph in the same general direction.  Meet my neighborhood: 


























On the way.  With Typhoon Yolanda passing nearby, all the billboards were rolled up (they are huge sheets of vinyl), leaving being their steel frameworks.  






An unusual church near the Starbucks where we stopped to pick up a colleague. There are churches about as often as there are empty steel frameworks that once displayed billboards.

We eventually leave the expressway for smaller roads that lead to the city of Tagaytay.  The billboards in this part of the country did not fear Yolanda.








After a few miles there was much sweetcorn to be purchased, which Ryan did.


These guys just had hard work ahead of them.

Everything you see around this motorcycle is connected to this motorcycle, including the roof. This fellow can sell you a hat, a bowl, some light up devil horns, a wicker beach mat, something that passes for "candy", and many other things.  Then without warning, he can move to a new location without needing to pack up anything.

Stationary vendors appeared along the road.  This one sells the "signorinas" -- the tiny bananas.

First cow of the day.  

We're first heading to the city of Tagaytay, where we'll pick up another colleague, and then find someone who's willing to ferry us to the island where you can get to the famous lake in a crater in a lake in a crater, which we can see from a coffee shop in Tagaytay.  The dots you see near the near shore are fish pens for Tilapia, milkfish, and the famous bangus:

Everyone is hawking their boat-taxi skills, and this guy is among the most driven.  He holds up a sign (as they all do) that reads "Boat to Taal".  Holding his sign he sprints after the van until the van outrins him.  So then he gets on a scooter and pursues us with his sign.



Heading down to the water front, we pass through several small towns... 


... and find someone we hire to take us across the lake.

My shipmates -- Ruth, Jan, and Janelle.  We are riding in a motorized outrigger boat that with the wind at its back, is stable.  It's cool the water, which is a nice change from metro Manila.
Here we go:




Arrival...

A squadron of dogs welcomed us to Crater Island.

There's a village on Crater Island, complete with a school and fast-food joint.


















Everyone is supposed to get to the top of the mountain by riding a pony.  Ryan, ahead of me in our pony convoy.

Should you not know how to ride a horse, these guys point that out in two languages.  

My trail guide, Arnold:

The daughter and wife of my trail guide:

The village we rode through.  








Unlucky horse.

Volcano steam.

At the top.  I vow to walk down.

At crater lake, the group.


Imagine this line up with the previous photo to create a stunning panorama.


















































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